TRAINING 17: HOW TO CHOOSE GEMSTONES FOR JEWELRY MAKING
INTRODUCTION
Welcome to this online jewellery course focused on gemstone durability and safety in professional jewellery making. Understanding which gemstones are resistant to scratches, impact, heat, and chemicals is essential when working with different jewellery techniques such as soldering, stone setting, polishing, or mechanical processing. Choosing the right gemstone helps prevent cracking, discoloration, thermal damage, and long-term wear issues — both during jewelry production and everyday use.
Online Course Objectives:
Learn how to assess gemstone durability using key criteria such as hardness, cleavage, and thermal resistance
Understand how different jewellery making techniques affect gemstone safety
Gain practical knowledge on selecting gemstones for specific projects and wear conditions
The course is divided into 4 modules to help you systematically evaluate gemstones used in jewellery design.
MODULE 1: KEY CONCEPTS – HARDNESS, CLEAVAGE & GEMSTONE RESISTANCE
Hardness – Mohs Scale
The Mohs scale measures gem hardness from 1 to 10
Diamond ranks at 10, talc at 1
Common jewellery gemstones typically range between 5 and 9
(e.g. amethyst~7, topaz ~8, corundum – ruby and sapphire ~9)
Cleavage
Cleavage describes a gemstone’s tendency to split along crystal planes
Even very hard stones (such as diamond) can be vulnerable to impact if struck along a cleavage plane
Stones like diamond and topaz have pronounced cleavage despite high hardness
Heat & Chemical Resistance
High temperatures during soldering or annealing can damage precious stones
Delicate stones (opal, turquoise, pearls) react poorly to heat and ultrasonic cleaning
More stable stones (corundum, diamond) tolerate higher temperatures but still require controlled heating
Conclusion:
Hardness alone does not determine gemstone safety. Cleavage, thermal stability, and chemical sensitivity are equally important in jewellery making.
MODULE 2: HOW JEWELLERY TECHNIQUES AFFECT GEMSTONES
Soldering Precious Metals & High Heat
Heat-sensitive stones should never be present during soldering
Organic and porous gemstones must always be set after metalwork is completed
Mechanical Processing (forging, hammering, rolling)
Shock and vibration can crack gemstones
Stones with high cleavage (topaz, tanzanite) are especially vulnerable
Quartz varieties (citrine, amethyst) are generally safer under moderate mechanical stress
Polishing & Ultrasonic Cleaning
Mechanical polishing may overheat stones with inclusions
Emeralds, opals, and treated gemstones should not be cleaned ultrasonically
Stone Setting Pressure
Prong and channel settings can apply focused pressure
Bezel settings distribute force more evenly and are safer for fragile stones
Conclusion:
Each jewellery making technique presents different risks. Gemstone selection must align with the planned production process.
MODULE 3: DURABILITY OVERVIEW OF COMMON GEMSTONES
Highly Durable Gemstones
Diamond (Mohs 10): extremely hard, but brittle along cleavage planes
Ruby & Sapphire (Corundum, Mohs 9): excellent durability and heat resistance
Spinel & Chrysoberyl: strong, stable, and jewellery-safe
Medium Durability
Topaz (Mohs 8): hard but fragile due to cleavage
Quartz family (Mohs 7) such as smoky quartz: generally safe, color may change with heat
Tourmaline: moderate durability, some varieties are brittle
Delicate Gemstones
Emerald: inclusions, oil treatments, sensitive to heat & ultrasonics
Opal, Turquoise, Pearls, Amber: low hardness, high sensitivity
Tanzanite: directional cleavage, easily damaged
Treatments & Enhancements
Heat-treated, oil-filled, coated, or irradiated gemstones may behave differently during jewellery making
Conclusion:
Durability depends on a combination of hardness, cleavage, inclusions, and treatments — not just Mohs value.
MODULE 4: PRACTICAL GUIDELINES FOR GEMSTONE SELECTION
How to choose the right gemstone
Match gemstone durability to the jewellery making technique
Consider daily wear vs. occasional jewellery design
Balance budget, aesthetics, and durability – more expensive, durable gemstones (diamond, sapphire) versus cheaper but less durable minerals (e.g. opal, malachite).
Planning the workflow
Perform all soldering before setting heat-sensitive stones
Use bezel settings for fragile gemstones
Always test stone stability before final polishing
Alternatives
Synthetic gemstones (synthetic corundum, moissanite, zirconia) offer excellent durability
Imitation stones can be ideal for high-stress designs
Customer care & maintenance
Educate clients about gemstone care
Recommend periodic setting inspections for high-value stones
Conclusion:
Thoughtful gemstone selection is essential for creating safe, long-lasting jewellery projects. When in doubt, choose durability or consult a gemologist.
FINAL SUMMARY OF JEWELLERY COURSE
Evaluate gemstones using hardness, cleavage, and thermal resistance
Match gemstones to jewellery making techniques
Avoid heat and mechanical stress for delicate stones
Plan production stages carefully and test stability
Understanding gemstone properties allows every jewellery maker to design supplies that are not only beautiful, but also durable and safe for everyday wear. With growing knowledge and practice, selecting the right gemstones becomes intuitive and professional.
At 925CRAFT you will find wide range of jewellery making supplies for making earrings, necklaces, bracelets, rings and many other jewellery designs.
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